Bouillon Pigalle, old school Parisian nostalgia gets a makeover.

I'm too old now to even try to hide my undying love for super clichéed, old school Paris, and old enough, too, not to care about clocking in at the latest hot address. But when I was back in Paris briefly in December, Bouillon Pigalle gave me both the satisfaction of tasting the first properly made French classics in years (the ones you stopped ordering in Montparnasse brasseries, sure of disappointment) and the frisson of early adopting one of the most talked about 2017 winter openings.

Bouillon Pigalle is the latest addition to the Moussié brothers' string of sensitive renovations aimed at Paris' hip foodloving crowd. First, they lovingly brought Chez Jeannette on rue du Faubourg St Denis back to life in 2007, starting the gentrification of this part of town which is in full swing today, and since then have added Brasserie Barbès, Hôtel Providence and Le Mansart to their stable.

Paris' Bouillons, the poor man's brasseries, egalitarian canteens created in the 1900s by the Duval butchers to feed Les Halles workers with cheap, nourishing leftover cuts of meat, marrow bones and broths, have all but died out. Only Chartier retains its original concept, though sadly the spectacle and the decor are the only elements worth going for, as the food, though cheap, has long since lost its appeal. Bouillon Racine is another sorry tale, where the food disappoints even more starkly against the lavish art nouveau trappings of the room. (I wonder just how many of the gorgeous rooms we've fallen in love with in films still serve decent grub? Le Grand Colbert, Julien, Polidor, I'm looking at you.)

Anyway, Bouillon Pigalle is a pure 2017 recreation and a complete delight. With plenty of nods to the old style bouillon - Thonet chairs, long red banquettes, flowing plants, jovial waiters in long aprons and black vests - Bouillon delivers a sort of living reference book of bourgeois French cooking and brasserie favourites at prices that even an eater of most modest means can afford. And it's fun! And everything is freshly house made, from the mustardy mayonnaise atop the eggs (1.90€) to the famous bouillon de boeuf vermicelles (1.80€) and the luscious fresh tarragon-laced béarnaise served with tender (yes!) whelks (6.40€). We were saving our appetites that evening for a late dinner, so only tried a few starters (well, five between two of us) With a decent demi pichet of Brouilly, the bill came to less than 25 euros. I'll be back soon, braving the queues next time for the blanquette (10.50€) or the bourguignon (9.80€), and the profiterole au chocolat (4.50€), drowned in chocolate sauce, and a table on the lovely terrasse upstairs looking out over Pigalle's hustle and bustle.

Open non stop daily from noon to midnight. Carte: 10-20 euros. No reservations.

22, boulevard de Clichy, Paris (IXe). 01-42-59-69-31.